A Christian relic of the Umayyad Mosque
LOCATION: Damascus, Umayyad Mosque (a long-term observation survey recording).
The largest mosque of the Arab Caliphate era. Founded in the 8th century and situated within the walls of the main Byzantine cathedral of St. John the Baptist, it has for centuries been the Muslim wonder of the world as the most magnificent building of the Umayyad era and the most monumental and rich mosque in the Arab world. Its size and beauty are amazing to this day.
Near the walls of the mosque, the legendary Salah Ad-Din, known as Saladin in Europe, was buried the greatest Arab commander – the terror of the Crusaders. Not everyone knows that under the vaults of the mosque, according to a legend, rests the head of John the Baptist (Yahya in Arabic). After the execution of the Baptist, it was secretly transferred here from Jerusalem by his disciples and was buried there. It is significant that John the Baptist is holy not only for Christians but also for Muslims. In describing the history of the Umayyad Mosque, we learn how the representatives of the new religion of Islam respected Christianity, honoring all its saints, and even sharing at first the shelter of the temple: one part served as a mosque, the other as a church. And today the mosque is the spiritual center of the city, open to all. Both Muslims and Christians come here. Not only do the fivefold prayers take place here. Dervishes foretell the future, students prepare for lectures, and friends meet to talk on the carpets of the mosque. Some visitors, come here just to reflect or to rest. Here we become unwitting participants in a theological debate.
One of the stories we recorded is about the last folk storyteller of Damascus.
This is Rashid Al-Din Hallab Abou Shadi, – a hereditary hakawati from Damascus. Just outside the wall of the mosque is a folk café where this extraordinary man gathers listeners every evening to recount forgotten legends in the spirit of the “Thousand and One Nights”.
“…I tell historical ancient stories from the pre-Islamic period, such as the legendary hero Antarah ibn Shaddad. Or about the ancient Arabs, how they lived. Then I have stories about King (Sultan) Zahir Baybars and his battles and fight against the Crusaders. And I also have stories about Princess Zat Al- Himmeh and, of course, the brilliant queen of Palmyra, Zenobia.”